Debunking myths and misconceptions about olive oil

Recently I read an article about olive oil in The Times with the title “Why is olive oil so expensive? The liquid gold that took over the world” by a journalist called Lucy Denyer.

As you all know, I love olive oil just as much as I love wine. So, when I noticed several inaccurate and incorrect information, I couldn’t just ignore it. I tweeted the journalist, pointing out some of the mistakes, and to my surprise, she replied. Unfortunately, her responses felt more like excuses than genuine efforts to address the issues. I even offered to help rewrite the article, but she declined. I also tweeted The Times and the journalist again - no response from either.

Now, journalists often write what fits their narrative, but this article could have been so much better with just a little research. Even a quick Google search or, better yet, a chat with olive oil producers or experts, would have given her the right information.

This post isn’t about the article or the journalist. Instead, I want to use this opportunity to clear up some common misconceptions about olive oil. Let’s start with one of the basics: acidity.

Acidity is a key indicator of the quality of extra virgin olive oil. The rule is simple: the lower the acidity, the better the oil. For example, our extra virgin olive oils have all an acidity of less than 0.2%, which is excellent. For an extra virgin olive oil, the upper limit is 0.8%.

So, what affects the acidity of olive oil?

1. Delays in Processing: Waiting too long between harvesting and milling the olives.

2. Poor-Quality Olives: Using unripe, damaged, or unhealthy olives.

3. Improper Storage: Storing olive oil in conditions that lead to oxidation.

Another term you often see on olive oil labels is “Cold Pressed.” Let’s clear something up - those big granite wheels used for pressing olives? They’re mostly museum pieces now. These days, high-tech mills extract oil more efficiently while preserving its quality.

So, what does “Cold Pressed” actually mean? It refers to the process of mechanically extracting oil at a temperature below 27°C.

Why 27°C? Keeping the temperature low preserves the oil’s nutritional and physical qualities, like its antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals. This not only maintains its health benefits but also enhances its flavour. When the process exceeds this temperature, the oil loses some of its health properties.

Timing the olive harvest is crucial for a good extra virgin olive oil. Olives should be picked when they’re fully developed and just at the right level of ripeness. This is the phase when the olives are rich in oil, and the water, sugar, and acid levels in the pulp have decreased. Harvesting at this stage ensures a flavourful, nutrients packed olive oil. Waiting for the olives to be fully ripe, will produce a poor quality extra virgin olive oil.

It should also be emphasised that not all olive varieties, cultivars, have a homogeneous maturation that affects all olives, which is why producers who strive for the highest quality are forced to proceed with the manual and selective harvesting of the olives.

Hopefully, this post clears up some of the confusion and gives you a better appreciation and understanding. Let me know your thoughts - especially if there are other myths or questions about olive oil you'd like me to tackle!