Finally some sense

Back in 2020, I wrote about the non-commercial logic behind creating creating subappellations or crus- as some prefer to call them. Now, five years later, the Piedmont region is set to introduce the "Extended Geographical Mention" (Menzione Geografica Allargata, EGM), ensuring that the word Piemonte appears on any wine produced within the region.

As I argued then, adding more subappellations, crus, or even entirely new appellations only serves to create confusion for consumers, especially in a world where every country produces wine. Imagine walking into a wine shop, looking for a Soave, and being confronted with an array of different wines, each with its own distinct crus. The overwhelming variety would likely push the average consumer to opt for something more familiar, like a Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand.

While the concept of crus or subappellations can still be justified for a very limited selection of premium wines, for the vast majority of wines, these labels act as a barrier rather than an advantage. Decades ago, crus and appellations had a function, a meaningful role in defining quality and provenance. However, in today’s market, expecting them to evolve into recognizable brands is not only unrealistic but also prohibitively expensive. The average consumer looking for a Soave isn’t searching for an obscure cru, they want a wine that fits a recognizable style and price point.

At a time when global wine consumption is declining, and drinking habits are evolving, the introduction of yet more designations is not the way forward. Instead, the EGM system will provide much needed simplicity, particularly for consumers navigating wines from smaller, lesser-known appellations, many of which are unfamiliar even to Italians. With an EGM, buyers will have a clearer understanding of where, geographically, their wine originates.

But the potential of EGMs should extend beyond wine. This initiative could serve as a foundation for strengthening regional branding, not just in the wine sector but across all food and drink products. By reinforcing a regional identity, each region could create a trustworthy quality mark that consumers associate with authenticity and provenance.

In fact, EGMs should be implemented across all Italian regions, establishing a standard that communicates both provenance and quality. More importantly, this could help eliminate the poor-quality producers - the black sheep - that damage consumer trust and undermine the reputation of an entire appellation. Unlike the various consortiums that have often struggled to uphold quality standards, a well-structured EGM system could provide the credibility and consistency that consumers desperately need.

This is the direction Italian regions should be heading, toward regional identity, clarity, and quality assurance, rather than further fragmentation and consumer confusion.